Quick answer
Onam is Kerala's ten-day harvest festival in the Malayalam month of Chingam, which falls in August or September and ends on Thiruvonam. For visitors, the highlights are the Onasadya feast on a banana leaf, pookalam flower carpets, Pulikali tiger dancers in Thrissur and snake-boat races on the backwaters. Book houseboats and hotels six to eight weeks ahead.
Highlights
- Onasadya, a vegetarian feast of 20-plus dishes on a banana leaf
- Pookalam flower carpets outside homes, offices and temples
- Pulikali tiger dancers in Thrissur
- Snake-boat races such as the Aranmula Uthrattathi Vallamkali
- Athachamayam procession at Thrippunithura that opens the festival
What actually happens during Onam
Onam welcomes home the legendary King Mahabali, and Kerala celebrates it across religions. The ten days run from Atham to Thiruvonam. On Atham, the Athachamayam procession at Thrippunithura near Kochi opens the festival, and families begin a pookalam, a flower carpet that grows each day. New clothes are bought, women perform Thiruvathira kali, and the state government runs Onam Week in Thiruvananthapuram with illuminations, concerts and a closing procession.
The heart of it is the Onasadya, a vegetarian feast of 20 or more dishes, including avial, olan, kalan, sambar, pachadi and two or three payasams, served on a banana leaf. Restaurants and hotels serve sadya through the season for about ₹400–1,500 a plate; book a day ahead. When you finish, folding the leaf towards you signals you enjoyed it.
The best days to go
Uthradom, the eve, and Thiruvonam are the main days, but Thiruvonam is a family day and many shops close. In Thrissur, the Pulikali tiger dancers parade on Nalam Onam, two days after Thiruvonam. Snake-boat races cluster around Onam, with the Aranmula race on the Pampa river a highlight.
Where to stay and how early to book
Onam is a domestic peak, with Keralites at home and Gulf families visiting. Houseboats in Alappuzha cost about ₹9,000–15,000 a night for a couple, and mid-range Kochi hotels ₹4,000–8,000. Book six to eight weeks ahead. A five-night Kerala trip starts around ₹19,000 per person, land only.
Weather, crowds and etiquette
The south-west monsoon is easing but August can still bring heavy showers; September is drier. Temperatures sit around 29–30°C. Boat-race banks get packed, so reach early and keep away from the water's edge. Ask before photographing a family's pookalam, and do not step on it.
What to wear
Kerala dresses up for Onam in off-white and gold kasavu sarees and mundus; visitors who join in are warmly received. Otherwise, light cotton, an umbrella and sandals that cope with rain.
Combining it
Add Munnar's tea hills, at their greenest after the rains, and a houseboat night in Alleppey. See the best time to visit Kerala, things to do in Kerala, where to stay in Alleppey and our September ideas.
Frequently asked questions
When is Onam celebrated?
Can tourists eat an Onam Sadya?
Where can I see a snake-boat race during Onam?
Is Onam a good time to visit Kerala given the monsoon?
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Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.






