Quick answer
Do both: one or two nights in the old city below the fort, for early visits to the fort and havelis, and one night in a desert camp. Sam's camps are lively and suit families and groups; Khuri's are quieter and suit couples. Avoid staying inside the fort itself if you can, because guesthouse water use damages its foundations.
The best areas to stay in Jaisalmer
Inside the fort (Sonar Qila)
₹Best for: Atmosphere seekers on a budget
Guesthouses in the lanes of a living 12th-century fort, with rooftop views over the desert.
Water use by guesthouses damages the fort's foundations; rooms are basic and cars can't get in.
Doubles from ₹1,500 a night
Old city and Gadisar Lake
₹Best for: Most first-timers
Heritage hotels and havelis below the walls, with fort views from the rooftops, walkable to the havelis and Gadisar.
Narrow lanes, and quality varies from beautifully restored to tired.
Doubles from ₹1,800 a night
Sam Road hotel belt
₹₹Best for: Families who want a pool and space
Larger resorts and heritage-style hotels on the road towards the dunes, with pools and parking; the city's luxury hotels are here too.
3–8 km from the fort, so you drive into town.
Doubles from ₹4,000 a night
Sam dune camps
₹Best for: Families and groups who want a lively night
Dozens of camps at the foot of the main dunes, usually including a camel ride, folk programme, dinner and breakfast.
Commercial and noisy, with DJ sets at some camps, and quality varies hugely.
Doubles from ₹3,000 per tent with meals a night
Khuri camps and village stays
₹Best for: Couples and photographers who want quiet
Smaller dunes and calmer camps, plus mud-hut stays in Khuri village.
Further from the city, with fewer premium options.
Doubles from ₹2,500 per tent with meals a night
Luxury desert camps
₹₹₹Best for: Honeymooners and special occasions
Spaced-out tented camps away from the main dunes, with en-suite tents, good food and guided desert walks.
Expensive, and some are up to an hour's drive from the fort.
Doubles from ₹20,000 a night
₹ budget · ₹₹ mid-range · ₹₹₹ premium. Nightly rates are starting prices for a double room outside peak dates.
City or desert camp: which is better?
Do both. A night in the city lets you see the fort, its Jain temples and the havelis early in the day without a drive, while a night in the dunes is why most people come. The usual plan is one or two nights in the old city below the fort and one night in a camp at Sam or Khuri.
Sam versus Khuri camps
Sam, 42 km west, has the tallest dunes and the most camps, which means camel queues at sunset, quad bikes and a DJ at some camps. It suits families and groups who want a lively evening. Khuri, 45 km south-west, has smaller dunes and quieter camps, and couples and photographers usually prefer it. At both, the difference between a ₹3,000 tent and an ₹8,000 one is mostly the bathroom, the bedding and the noise.
What to check before booking a camp
- Is the tent en-suite, with hot water and a western toilet?
- Is the folk programme in a shared arena or at your own camp?
- Are dinner, breakfast and the camel ride included?
- Are heaters or extra quilts available in December and January?
Why not stay in the fort?
It is tempting, and the views are wonderful, but guesthouses inside Sonar Qila draw water into a structure built on sandstone, and seepage has damaged parts of its foundations. Staying below the walls gives you the same rooftop view of the fort at night.
Most camps close from April to September. In summer, stay in the city and visit the dunes only for sunset.
Plan the rest
See the best time to visit Jaisalmer, things to do in Jaisalmer, and the Rajasthan trip cost to see camp prices in the context of a full trip.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to stay in a desert camp in Jaisalmer?
Should I stay inside Jaisalmer Fort?
How much does a desert camp in Jaisalmer cost?
How we checked this page
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Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.
