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White salt desert at Rann of Kutch

Regional food guide

What to eat in Gujarat

What to eat in Gujarat: the Gujarati thali, dhokla, khandvi, fafda-jalebi, undhiyu, dabeli, Kutchi khichdi and Kathiawadi food, plus Jain and dry-state tips.

Fact-checked 2 min readBy the Elitech Travels editorial desk
Prof Ranga Sai · CC BY-SA 4.0

Quick answer

Start with an unlimited Gujarati thali, then work through the farsan: dhokla, khandvi, fafda with jalebi on Sunday mornings, and Kutch's dabeli. In winter, look for undhiyu. Saurashtra's Kathiawadi food is spicier, with sev tameta and bajra rotla. Gujarat is the easiest state in India for vegetarian and Jain travellers, and it is a dry state.

How easy is it to eat well?

Vegetarian & Jain friendliness

5/5

5 = easy everywhere, 1 = plan every meal

Indian food availability

5/5

5 = Indian restaurants everywhere, 1 = rare

Dishes to try in Gujarat

  • Gujarati thali

    Unlimited dal, kadhi, three or four sabzis, farsan, rotli, rice, khichdi and a sweet, refilled until you stop; about ₹250–600 at good thali houses.

  • Dhokla

    Steamed, spongy gram-flour cake tempered with mustard seeds and green chilli; breakfast, snack or side.

  • Khandvi

    Thin rolls of gram flour and yoghurt, tempered with mustard seeds and coconut; soft and mildly tangy.

  • Fafda and jalebi

    Crisp gram-flour strips with hot jalebi, raw papaya relish and fried chillies; Ahmedabad's Sunday and Dussehra breakfast.

  • Undhiyu

    A winter mix of vegetables and fenugreek dumplings, slow-cooked and eaten with puri, especially around Uttarayan.

  • Thepla

    Fenugreek flatbreads that keep for days; Gujarat's road-trip food, with pickle or sweet chhundo.

  • Dabeli

    Kutch's street snack from Mandvi: spiced potato with pomegranate and roasted peanuts in a toasted bun.

  • Kutchi khichdi and kadhi

    Rice and lentils cooked soft with ghee, with sweet-sour kadhi; comfort food in Kutch's village kitchens and at Tent City.

  • Sev tameta with bajra rotla

    Kathiawadi cooking from Saurashtra: tangy tomato curry topped with sev, with thick millet rotla, butter and jaggery.

  • Handvo

    A savoury baked cake of rice, lentils and bottle gourd with a crisp sesame crust.

  • Shrikhand

    Hung yoghurt sweetened with sugar, saffron and cardamom, eaten with puri in festive thalis.

  • Kebabs and biryani in Bhatiyar Gali

    Ahmedabad's old city meat street near Bhadra Fort; one of the few places in the state where non-vegetarian food is the norm.

Phrases that help

Useful phrases
SayMeaning
Kem cho?How are you? The everyday greeting
Ochhu tikhuLess spicy
Dungli-lasan vagarWithout onion and garlic
Jain thali chhe?Is there a Jain thali?
Gol vagarWithout jaggery

What is Gujarati food like?

Gujarati food is overwhelmingly vegetarian, and much of it is lightly sweet: a little jaggery or sugar goes into the dal, kadhi and many vegetables, balanced with lemon and green chilli. The state's real strength is farsan, the savoury snacks such as dhokla, khandvi and fafda, eaten at any time of day. Regional styles differ sharply. Surat is known for undhiyu and street food, Kutch for simple, robust village cooking, and Kathiawad, in Saurashtra, for spicier food with millet rotlas.

The thali is the best introduction

An unlimited Gujarati thali brings dal, kadhi, three or four sabzis, farsan, rotli, rice, khichdi and a sweet, with waiters refilling until you stop. Good thali houses in Ahmedabad and Rajkot charge about ₹250–600. If you prefer less sweetness, ask for the dal gol vagar, without jaggery.

Vegetarian and Jain travellers

No state in India is easier. Most restaurants are pure vegetarian, Jain food without onion, garlic or root vegetables is offered almost everywhere, and many places make Jain versions of popular dishes. Tent City at Dhordo and most Gir lodges cater to Jain diets on request.

Meat and alcohol

Meat is available, mainly in Ahmedabad's old city around Bhatiyar Gali and in some hotel restaurants, but it is far less common than in most states. Gujarat is a dry state: alcohol is sold only to permit holders, and visitors can apply for a temporary permit at licensed hotel shops with ID.

On a Kutch or Gir road trip, carry theplas from Ahmedabad. They keep for days, and highway food can be thin on some stretches.

Plan the rest

See things to do in Gujarat, the best time to visit Gujarat for undhiyu and Uttarayan season, and the Gujarat trip cost for meal budgets. Combining with Rajasthan? The Rajasthani food guide covers the next state north.

Frequently asked questions

Is Gujarati food sweet?
Often slightly, yes. Many households and restaurants add a little jaggery or sugar to dal, kadhi and vegetables, balanced with lemon and chilli. The sweetness is strongest in Ahmedabad and central Gujarat, and much less in Kathiawadi food from Saurashtra, which is spicier. You can ask for dishes without jaggery at most restaurants.
Is Gujarat good for Jain travellers?
It is the easiest state in India. Most restaurants are pure vegetarian, Jain food without onion, garlic or root vegetables is widely available, and many menus mark Jain options. Tent City at Dhordo, Gir lodges and Somnath's hotels cater to Jain diets on request. Mention your needs when booking.
Can visitors drink alcohol in Gujarat?
Gujarat is a dry state. Visitors from outside the state can apply for a temporary liquor permit at licensed shops attached to some larger hotels, with photo ID and travel details, and buy within its limits. Rules change from time to time, so check with your hotel. Drinking in public or carrying alcohol without a permit is an offence.
What should I eat in the Rann of Kutch?
Kutchi food is simple and filling: khichdi with kadhi, bajra rotla with butter and jaggery, and buttermilk at every meal. In Bhuj, try dabeli, which was born in nearby Mandvi. Tent City at Dhordo serves Gujarati and Kutchi buffets with Jain options, and village homestays in Hodka and Dhordo cook home-style meals.

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Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.