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Regional food guide

What to eat in Delhi

What to eat in Delhi: chole bhature, Old Delhi parathas, butter chicken, nihari, chaat, daulat ki chaat and kulfi, with where to go and tips for vegetarians.

Fact-checked 2 min readBy the Elitech Travels editorial desk
Jakub Hałun · CC BY-SA 4.0

Quick answer

Delhi's must-eats are chole bhature, stuffed parathas in Old Delhi, chaat such as aloo tikki and gol gappe, and butter chicken or dal makhani for dinner. The lanes around Jama Masjid are the place for kebabs and nihari. In winter, look for daulat ki chaat. Vegetarian and Jain food is easy to find across the city.

How easy is it to eat well?

Vegetarian & Jain friendliness

5/5

5 = easy everywhere, 1 = plan every meal

Indian food availability

5/5

5 = Indian restaurants everywhere, 1 = rare

Dishes to try in Delhi

  • Chole bhature

    Spiced chickpeas with puffed fried bread and pickled onions; Delhi's favourite late breakfast, at its best in neighbourhood markets like Kamla Nagar and Paharganj.

  • Stuffed parathas

    Fried in ghee in Old Delhi's Paranthe Wali Gali and stuffed with everything from aloo and paneer to rabri and karela.

  • Aloo tikki and papdi chaat

    Crisp potato patties and papdi under yoghurt, tamarind and green chutney; Chandni Chowk and Bengali Market are classic stops.

  • Gol gappe

    Hollow puris filled with spiced water; ask for meetha or teekha paani, and eat them one after another at the cart.

  • Butter chicken

    Tandoori chicken simmered in a buttery tomato gravy. Restaurants in Daryaganj claim to have invented it after Partition.

  • Dal makhani

    Black urad and rajma slow-cooked with butter and cream; the vegetarian partner to butter chicken.

  • Nihari

    Slow-cooked shank stew eaten early in the morning or after evening prayers near Jama Masjid, with khamiri roti.

  • Seekh and galouti kebabs

    Minced-meat kebabs grilled on skewers in the Jama Masjid lanes; Matia Mahal is the main street.

  • Daulat ki chaat

    A winter-only cloud of whipped milk froth with saffron and pistachio, sold from carts in Chandni Chowk from about November to February.

  • Jalebi with rabri

    Thick jalebis fried in desi ghee at the corner of Dariba Kalan, eaten hot with cold rabri.

  • Kulfi

    Dense frozen milk dessert, from kesar-pista to versions stuffed into hollowed mangoes and oranges, in Old Delhi's Sitaram Bazar.

  • Rajma chawal

    Kidney beans in onion-tomato gravy with rice; Delhi's home-style comfort food, sold at lunch stalls across the city.

Phrases that help

Useful phrases
SayMeaning
Bina pyaaz-lehsunWithout onion and garlic
Kam mirchLess chilli
Shuddh shakahariPure vegetarian, with no eggs or meat in the kitchen
Sealed bottle denaPlease give me a sealed bottle of water

Where to eat in Delhi

Delhi's food splits into three zones. Old Delhi, meaning Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid and the lanes between, is the heart of it: parathas, chaat, jalebi, kebabs and nihari, much of it from shops run by the same families for generations. Central and South Delhi, from Connaught Place and Khan Market to Defence Colony and Hauz Khas, is where you find Punjabi restaurants, modern Indian kitchens and cafés. Neighbourhood markets such as Kamla Nagar, Lajpat Nagar and Karol Bagh do the best everyday chole bhature, momos and chaat.

Vegetarian and Jain travellers

Delhi is easy. Most chaat, paratha and sweet shops are vegetarian, shuddh shakahari restaurants are common, and Jain food without onion, garlic or root vegetables is available at many Marwari and Gujarati-run places. In Old Delhi, the Chandni Chowk side is largely vegetarian, while Matia Mahal near Jama Masjid is the meat street.

An Old Delhi food walk

  1. Parathas in Paranthe Wali Gali.
  2. Jalebi at the corner of Dariba Kalan.
  3. Aloo tikki or dahi bhalle in Chandni Chowk.
  4. Kulfi in Sitaram Bazar.
  5. For meat-eaters, kebabs and nihari on Matia Mahal.

Go on a weekday morning or late afternoon, and use a cycle-rickshaw between stops.

Winter and summer

Winter is the best eating season: daulat ki chaat, gajar halwa, makki di roti with sarson da saag, and hot jalebi. Summer means kulfi, aam panna, shikanji and lassi.

Street food is safest from busy stalls cooking to order. Skip raw garnishes and pre-cut fruit if your stomach is sensitive, and drink sealed bottled water.

Plan the rest

Pair a food walk with things to do in Delhi, check the best time to visit Delhi for daulat ki chaat season, and choose a base in where to stay in Delhi. Heading north? The Amritsar food guide covers kulchas and Amritsari fish.

Frequently asked questions

What is Delhi's most famous food?
Chole bhature is the dish most Delhiites would name, closely followed by Old Delhi's parathas and chaat. For dinner, butter chicken and dal makhani are the city's best-known exports. In winter, daulat ki chaat from Chandni Chowk carts is the seasonal speciality food lovers look for.
Is Old Delhi street food safe to eat?
Mostly, with sensible choices. Eat at busy stalls where food is cooked or fried to order, avoid pre-cut fruit and uncovered chutneys, and drink sealed bottled water. A guided food walk is a good first step, because guides know the long-running shops. Start slowly if you have a sensitive stomach.
Where can I find Jain food in Delhi?
Many Marwari, Gujarati and Jain-run restaurants and sweet shops serve dishes without onion, garlic or root vegetables, and most large vegetarian restaurants will prepare Jain versions on request. Old Delhi around Chandni Chowk has several Jain temples and pure vegetarian eateries nearby. Ask for Jain food clearly when ordering.
When is daulat ki chaat available in Delhi?
Daulat ki chaat is a winter speciality, sold from carts in Chandni Chowk and around Old Delhi from roughly November to February, mostly in the mornings. It is milk whipped into a light froth with saffron and sugar, and it melts almost instantly. It isn't made in summer because it depends on cold nights.

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Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.