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Food guide for Indian travellers

Vegetarian & Indian food in Sri Lanka

Vegetarian and Indian food in Sri Lanka: rice and curry, hoppers, the Maldive fish trap, pure-veg restaurants in Colombo, Jain tips and Sinhala phrases.

Fact-checked 3 min readBy the Elitech Travels editorial desk
dronepicr · CC BY 2.0

Quick answer

Sri Lanka is easy for vegetarians, with one catch. Rice and curry, hoppers, string hoppers, dosa and dal are everywhere, and Tamil and Indian restaurants serve familiar food. But many sambols and curries contain Maldive fish — dried tuna flakes — even when they look vegetarian. Ask for food without Maldive fish and you can eat very well for little money.

How easy is it to eat well?

Vegetarian & Jain friendliness

4/5

5 = easy everywhere, 1 = plan every meal

Indian food availability

4/5

5 = Indian restaurants everywhere, 1 = rare

What to order (and what to ask about)

  • Rice and curry

    Rice with four to eight small curries — dal, jackfruit, beetroot, green beans, pumpkin — and sambols. Order the vegetable version and confirm there is no Maldive fish.

  • Parippu

    Red lentil curry cooked in coconut milk with turmeric and curry leaves — Sri Lanka's dal.

  • Hoppers (appa)

    Bowl-shaped, crisp-edged pancakes of fermented rice flour and coconut milk, like appam. Egg hoppers have an egg cooked in the middle.

  • String hoppers (indiappa)

    Steamed rice-noodle nests eaten with dal and coconut sambol — the same as idiyappam.

  • Polos curry

    Young jackfruit slow-cooked in spices, sometimes called vegetarian meat.

  • Kiribath

    Milk rice cut into diamonds, eaten at New Year and on auspicious mornings with a chilli relish — check the relish has no Maldive fish.

  • Gotu kola sambol

    Shredded pennywort leaves with coconut, onion and lime. Usually vegetarian, but ask.

  • Pol sambol

    Grated coconut, chilli, onion and lime, very often made with Maldive fish. Ask for it without.

  • Kottu roti

    Chopped roti stir-fried on a griddle with vegetables, egg and meat. A vegetable kottu is easy to order; ask for no egg if needed.

  • Wattalappam

    Steamed jaggery and coconut custard with cardamom. Made with eggs, so not for eggless diets.

  • Lamprais

    A Dutch Burgher dish of rice and meat curries baked in a banana leaf.

  • Isso vadai

    Lentil fritters topped with whole prawns, sold on Galle Face Green. Plain parippu vadai is the vegetarian version.

Phrases that help

Useful phrases
SayMeaning
Mama elavalu witharai kanneI eat only vegetables.
Maalu nathuwaWithout fish.
Mas nathuwaWithout meat.
Umbalakada nathuwaWithout Maldive fish.
Bittara nathuwaWithout egg.
SaivamVegetarian, in Tamil — useful in Tamil areas and at Indian restaurants.

Is Sri Lanka good for vegetarian Indian travellers?

Yes. Rice and curry is a daily meal for most Sri Lankans, and the vegetable curries — dal, jackfruit, beetroot, pumpkin, green beans, okra — are the heart of it. Breakfasts of hoppers and string hoppers will feel familiar to anyone who grew up with appam and idiyappam, and dosa and vadai are easy to find.

The Maldive fish problem

The one real trap is Maldive fish (umbalakada): dried, cured tuna flakes used as seasoning in pol sambol, chilli relishes, some dals and many vegetable curries. You cannot see it once cooked. In local restaurants, ask clearly for food without Maldive fish — most cooks understand — and repeat it at each meal. In Tamil-run and Indian restaurants, or if you ask for "saivam" food, the risk is much lower.

Where to find Indian food

Colombo has dozens of South and North Indian restaurants, including pure-veg places in Wellawatte and Bambalapitiya, and Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Ella all have Indian options. Many hotels on the standard tourist circuit add Indian dishes to breakfast and dinner buffets for Indian guests. Jaffna's Tamil food is close to Tamil Nadu cooking, with more coconut.

What do meals cost?

MealTypical cost
Vegetable rice and curry, local café₹230–435 (LKR 800–1,500)
Masala dosa, Colombo Indian restaurant₹200–450
Hotel buffet dinner₹1,500–3,500
King coconut₹45–90

Jain travellers

Jain food takes planning, because onion, garlic and root vegetables go into most Sri Lankan curries. Pure-veg Indian restaurants in Colombo and Kandy can cook Jain meals, and many hotels will if you ask before arrival. Carry your own snacks for long drive days.

Tell your driver about dietary needs on day one. Drivers know which roadside restaurants cook clean vegetarian food and will plan lunch stops around them.

Plan your trip with the 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary, things to do in Sri Lanka and the Sri Lanka trip cost guide. Entry rules are in the Sri Lanka visa guide.

Frequently asked questions

What is Maldive fish and why does it matter?
Maldive fish is dried, cured tuna broken into flakes and used as a seasoning in Sri Lankan cooking — in coconut sambol, chilli relishes and many vegetable curries. It disappears into the dish, so vegetarians often eat it unknowingly. Ask for food without it ('umbalakada nathuwa') at every meal.
Can I find pure vegetarian restaurants in Sri Lanka?
Yes, especially in Colombo, where Wellawatte and Bambalapitiya have many Tamil and Indian pure-veg restaurants serving dosas, thalis and South Indian meals. Kandy and the hill towns have a few. Elsewhere, order vegetable rice and curry and ask for it without Maldive fish.
Is Sri Lankan food very spicy?
It can be hotter than South Indian food, especially the chilli sambols and some curries. Ask for 'less spicy' and keep sambols on the side. Hotel buffets aimed at tourists are milder, and coconut-based dishes such as parippu with string hoppers are gentle choices.

How we checked this page

Last reviewed

Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.