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Living root bridge, Meghalaya, India.

Regional food guide

What to eat in Meghalaya

What to eat in Meghalaya: jadoh, dohneiiong, tungrymbai, pumaloi, pukhlein and Garo dishes, plus how easy vegetarian and Indian food is in Shillong and Sohra.

Fact-checked 2 min readBy the Elitech Travels editorial desk
Joydeep Chakraborty · CC BY-SA 4.0

Quick answer

Meghalaya's food is rice-based and meat-heavy. Try Khasi dishes such as jadoh (rice with pork), dohneiiong (pork in black sesame), tungrymbai and the rice cakes pumaloi and pukhlein. Vegetarians manage well in Shillong, which has plenty of North Indian and veg restaurants, but options shrink in Sohra and Dawki. Carry snacks and ask homestays in advance.

How easy is it to eat well?

Vegetarian & Jain friendliness

3/5

5 = easy everywhere, 1 = plan every meal

Indian food availability

3/5

5 = Indian restaurants everywhere, 1 = rare

Dishes to try in Meghalaya

  • Jadoh

    Red rice cooked with pork and spices, sometimes with pork blood. The Khasi staple, sold at small jadoh stalls from breakfast onwards.

  • Dohneiiong

    Pork cooked in a thick, dark paste of ground black sesame. Rich and nutty.

  • Dohkhlieh

    A salad of boiled pork with onion, ginger and green chilli, served cold.

  • Tungrymbai

    Fermented soybean paste, usually cooked with pork. Ask whether a vegetable-only version can be made.

  • Pumaloi

    Steamed powdered rice served as a soft cake, often eaten with curries or at breakfast.

  • Putharo

    A soft, steamed rice-flour bread eaten with tea or curries.

  • Pukhlein

    Deep-fried rice flour and jaggery cakes, made at festivals and sold at tea stalls.

  • Ja stem

    Yellow rice cooked with turmeric, a simple Khasi rice often served with vegetables or dal.

  • Minil songa

    Garo sticky rice steamed in bamboo, made especially at festivals such as Wangala.

  • Nakham bitchi

    A Garo soup of dried fish and chilli, sharp and pungent, eaten with rice.

  • Shillong street momos and chow

    Stalls around Police Bazaar and Laitumkhrah sell veg and meat momos, chow noodles and fried snacks into the evening.

  • Khasi oranges and local pineapple

    Sweet mandarin oranges from November to January, and pineapples sold by the roadside in season.

Phrases that help

Useful phrases
SayMeaning
KhubleiThank you (Khasi)
Nga ym bam dohI don't eat meat
DohMeat (watch for it in dish names)
Doh sniangPork
Doh syiarChicken
JaRice

What is Khasi food like?

Most of the food you'll meet in Shillong and Sohra is Khasi: rice at every meal, pork in many forms, fermented soybean, black sesame, local herbs and plenty of chilli. Garo food from the western hills leans on dried fish and bamboo shoot. Flavours are earthy and less oily than most Indian cooking.

A useful tip: doh means meat in Khasi, so a dish with "doh" in its name contains it.

Is it easy to eat vegetarian in Meghalaya?

In Shillong, yes. Police Bazaar and the streets around it have pure-veg restaurants, North Indian dhabas, South Indian places and cafés, and veg momos are on most street stalls.

In Sohra, Dawki and Mawlynnong, choice shrinks. Homestays and small restaurants can usually make rice, dal, a vegetable, aloo and eggs, but traditional Khasi dishes are mostly meat-based. Tell your homestay about dietary needs when you book, and carry snacks for long days.

What about Jain food?

Hard outside Shillong. Onion, garlic and root vegetables are part of almost every dish, and many kitchens share utensils with meat dishes. Carry theplas, khakhras and dry snacks, and ask your Shillong hotel to help with requests.

Indian food in Meghalaya

Shillong has a long-settled Bengali, Marwari and Punjabi population, so thalis, rotis, dal and sweets are easy to find. Elsewhere, expect simple dal-rice meals. Many restaurants in Khasi areas close or run short hours on Sundays, so plan Sunday meals in advance.

What to drink

  • Red tea and milky tea at roadside stalls, often with pukhlein or putharo.
  • Kwai, betel nut with paan leaf and lime, is offered as a sign of hospitality. Politely declining is fine.

Jadoh stalls open early and are a good way to try local food. Ask what is in the dish before ordering.

Plan the trip with the 6-day Meghalaya itinerary, things to do in Meghalaya, the Meghalaya trip cost guide and the best time to visit Meghalaya.

Frequently asked questions

Is Meghalaya good for vegetarians?
Shillong is easy, with plenty of pure-veg, North Indian and South Indian restaurants. Sohra, Dawki and the villages are harder, because traditional Khasi food is mostly pork-based. Homestays can usually cook rice, dal, vegetables and eggs if you tell them in advance. Carry snacks for long sightseeing days.
What is jadoh?
Jadoh is the signature Khasi dish: red rice cooked with pork, ginger, onion and spices, sometimes with pork blood. It is sold at small stalls and restaurants from early morning. Vegetarians can try ja stem, a simple yellow rice with turmeric, instead.
Can I get Jain food in Shillong?
Some vegetarian restaurants in Shillong run by Marwari families can cook without onion, garlic and root vegetables on request. Outside Shillong it is difficult, as these ingredients are in almost everything. Carry dry snacks and theplas for days in Sohra and Dawki.

How we checked this page

Last reviewed

Written and fact-checked by the Elitech Travels editorial desk in New Delhi, drawing on our consultants' day-to-day booking work and the official sources below. Rules, fares and fees change — always confirm anything critical with the issuing authority before you travel. Our editorial policy.